We strolled past open shops down rue
Saint-Antoine to Île Saint-Louis looking for
souvenirs, but by 10:30 am, the galleries,
clothing, and souvenir shops were still
closed. Only the crémerie was open, so we
walked to Boulevard Beaumarchais and
Merci (a department store) where Sheila
shopped and I
nursed a coffee in their
cozy, book-lined coffee shop
before going for lunch at
Maison Plisson.
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A special lunch. Entree: Eggs with garlic
mayonnaise and fennel seeds. Main: Poached
chicken breast, fresh morels in a morel cream
sauce, steamed spinach and almond flakes
with a glass of excellent Crozes-Hermitage.
Dessert: Rice pudding with toasted hazel
nuts, raisins, and caramel drizzle) and cafe.
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The window display at l'Île
Flottante, where we had seen a
model house we wanted as a
Christmas ornament, was a
convincing street scene and we
had to constrain ourselves to
buying only one. Despite the
emphasis
on tourism,
we quite enjoyed the
shops and galleries.
Jig saw puzzles,
pendants, and
scarves ended up in
Sheila’s bag but
thankfully the art
was to big to carry.
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We had been lucky with
the weather but the
skies opened on our
way back to the
apartment. Fortunately
we were carrying our
rain jackets and were
more prepared for the
short downpour than some.
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I love the transfor-
mation of a city as
day turns to dusk,
dusk to evening,
and evening to
night. The city
becomes a differ-
ent world. The sky
was darkening, the
street lights on and rue
Saint-Antoine was
nearly traffic free as we
set off to explore the
streets of the Marais.
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The residences and
shops were peaceful,
their stone and plaster
bathed in the warmth
of the street lights, and
the empty shops
reflected the artistic
sensibilities of their
proprietors.
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The last seating for the
restaurants were finished or
finishing, but late evening
munchies could still be satisfied
at take-away windows serving
everything from crepes to falafel
to ice-cream, and even hot-dogs.
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Street lights
and empty
streets gave a
special quality
to everything
from graffiti,
to posters, to
the
early 16th century
architecture like
L’Hôtel Hérouet
and the late 16th
Bibliothèque his-
torique de la ville
de Paris in Hôtel
d'Angoulême
Lamoignon.
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