Dieng Plateau
The Dieng Plateau is actually the marshy floor of a large volcanic caldera complex. At 2,000 meters
(6,600 ft), it has a cooler, more temperate subtropical highland climate. A short dry season with
occasional killing frosts, known locally as bun apas (poison dew), the regions sulphur swamps
(fumaroles), and the remnants of a 9th century Hindu temple complex may be the source of the name
Dieng (from Di Hyang, Abode of the Gods).
We took a minibus to visit the plateau. The highland climate, the marshy caldera floor, the
surrounding volcanic hills, and the steaming fumaroles create a distinctive landscape that influences
both local architecture and dress style. At the time of our visit, tourism had not yet taken hold and the
economy was dominated by agriculture. Endless terraces stepped up the hillsides growing carrots,
potatoes, onions, and cabbage as well as fruits like carica (mountain papaya) and terong Belanda
(tamarillo) rather than rice. Locals climbed in the forested hills to harvest firewood, carrying it back to
the local markets on their backs.
The 7th or 8th century temple sites are thought to have numbered 400, but today, only 8 remain. We
visited the Arjuna cluster of 5 small temples, believed to be among the oldest surviving religious
structures in Java. It was a cold, overcast day, clouds hung against the mountain sides, and mists
drifted across the plateau. The scattered temples, surrounded by near featureless marsh and backed by
misty mountains felt forlorn and abandoned.
© David E. Moon, 2014 All rights reserved